Post eleven: Serendipity and fire in the sky

I had just plopped down at my regular table at The Meeting Spot in Cusco. I looked to my right and noticed that there was a man telling me that his name was Jeremy. The thought skipped across my mind “he looks like a Jeremy.” We began the normal conversation about how long we were each traveling, where we have gone, and where we were going. The conversation then diverged to the topic of employment and work. I talked all about how I tried to become an attorney and how I found the legal field wanting. He told me that he was living in Cusco and was at The Meeting Place that day in order to get some work done. He told me about how he had been a paralegal for eight years and asked me where I went to law school. I told him I am from Orlando.

As it comes to find out, he is from Orlando also! He went on to explain to me how it’s possible to be entirely free of the rat race; how he makes his living from any city in the world. He described to me a lifestyle where he does not have to answer to the man. He then went on to show me his website. I read his name “Jeremy Hillpot” and a flood of memories burst forth unto my mind. I knew this man, he had been kind to me, he had even done me a favor.

Although we had never actually met yet, we were supposed to, that much is obvious. We had both been members on couchsurfing.com. There are some pretty comical details about our conversations in the past which I will not divulge in my travel blog, but it’s hilarious that I ran into this cat in Cusco. Actually, I had had a pretty rough night the night before. Something had made me sad and I had been upset. I didn’t really have anything to do and it was New Year’s Eve. Up until the time I ran into Jeremy I’de been feeling pretty down, but that all changed very quickly. Jeremy explained to me that he was having a New Year’s Eve party and a lot of couch surfers were going to attend. He is paying $100 a month to rent a huge house on the hill in Cusco. From his house we could see the fireworks in the plaza, he asked me if I would like to come.

I went to the house around 9 PM and began to fraternize with the guests. Around 11:15 PM we walked down to the Plaza de Armas to watch the fireworks. This fireworks display was unlike anything I ever could’ve imagined. It went on for an entire hour. The city wasn’t exactly putting on the fireworks, it was more like the people, and hundreds of them. Fireworks were going off everywhere. If you weren’t careful they  could even be going off in your face or on your leg. The closer it got to 12, the more fireworks went off. At 12 o’clock, so many fireworks were going off in so many different directions that it was staggering my comprehension. The next thing I realized, Jeremy was grabbing my hand and we were running into the center of the plaza along with the masses. Apparently the Peruvians have a custom of running around the plaza counterclockwise, as a practice of good luck.  There were 1000 bodies all pulsing and pushing in the same direction, screaming and laughing, running and stopping, then walking.  The fireworks were still going mad. At one point when we were all running, my foot slipped upon a puddle of booze. I fell beneath the crowd and I feared for my life. For a split second I saw myself dying by being stampled to death by a crowd of festive Peruvians who were making their way around the plaza for good luck. Just about when my visions were to become reality, Jeremy grabbed my hand and pulled me back from jaws of death. It looks like I owe a favor.

GOOD EATS AND OTHER DODGY HAUNTS

The hostel where I stayed in Cusco was only $12 a night. It wasn’t the cleanest but it was safe and the owners were nice. I had Wi-Fi so I was happy.

WHERE’S THE DRIVER?!?

The taxi from San Blas to the bus station costs about $3 and takes about 15 minutes.  The bus from Cusco to Lima cost about $80 and took 24 hours.  If I had to go again, I would definitely go with lineas de Cruz del Sur.  I was supposed to have gotten a full cama seat, but these camas must have been designed for people who were 3 feet tall.  Nonetheless, I made it here happy and alive.

EVERY SOL SAVED IS A SOL EARNED

The handicrafts in Cusco are exquisite and somewhat expensive. If you have a budget for it, I would save some money for their purchase.

THE SWEET SPOT / SAY WHA.?!?

Did I mention that I ran into an internet friend in Cusco?; and that he set me free and then saved my life?

ESPIRITU LIBRE PARA LA VIDA

I stared straight into the eyes of serendipity on New Year’s Eve. I was greatly set free from the oppressive ideas that have been beat into my head as a Westerner. Now, the horizon I see is limitless; the only thing that can hold me back is me. Somehow I do not foresee that this will be a problem.

RANDOM THOUGHTS

I wish I had bought my gifts in Bolivia, rather than in Cusco.  You will pay about 7 times as much for silver in Cusco, but the quality will be the same. 

The weather is rather rainy and cold all of the places I have travelled on this trip.  It is summer here.  When you come, brings some warm clothes, some close toed shoes, and a poncho.

I am sure there are some other great summary points, but they aren’t leaping out at me just now.  I will conclude my Peru/Bolivia travel blog here.

Post ten: Gettin’ what I paid for – The trip to Machu Pichu

GOOD EATS AND OTHER DODGY HAUNTS

By the time I got to Aguas Calientes I was practically delirious with exhaustion, for I had only slept 3 hours the night before embarking on this long journey.  I was so tired and cold that I could not manage to “shop around” for a well-priced meal.  I ended up spending $40 just that night for dinner and a massage to help me recuperate.  So much for saving costs.

WHERE’S THE DRIVER?!?

The bus driver was rather nice on the way out of Cusco.  I ended up taking Perurail for a 2-hour train ride followed by a 2-hour bus ride to get back to Cusco the next day.  I paid $75 for this transport and it still required quite a bit of patience. 

EVERY SOL SAVED IS A SOL EARNED

Overall, I spent about $200 on the trip to Machu Pichu.  By trying to save an extra $110 I ended up having to travel 16 hours instead of just 8.  I ended up having to hike in the pouring rain alone in the jungle for 3-odd hours.  I ended up paying about the same.  I would highly recommend just paying full-cost if you’re planning to go see Machu Pichu.

THE SWEET SPOT

As I wound along the cliff and the ruins of Machu Pichu unraveled before my eyes, I realized what an incredible sight that was to see.  The Incas were clearly very intelligent and prolific.  I don’t buy into the theory that aliens made Machu Pichu, but it is clear that the Incas were privy to some very advanced and long-since-lost technologies. 

My mother passed away January 4, 2009.  That was the day after I had seen the sunrise over a hidden Maya Estella on a Honduras mountain-top.  Three long and interesting years have passed since then.  It filled my heart with joy to be able to sit alone at Machu Pichu and watch the sun rise over the mountain as I meditated on the memory of my mother.  I have been blessed with far more freedom and love than I could ever deserve.  For all the set-backs, tragedies and weird things that have happened to me, I have been compensated with an incredible richness of life experience.  The lows have been grossly over-compensated by the highs.  If I had to go today, I would go knowing that I had left no stone un-turned and that my life was far more incredible that any one person could deserve.

SAY WHA?!?

I spent a net $90 on the “all-inclusive” trip to Machu Pichu where other agencies were selling for $210.   When I heard this price I thought to myself, “Exactly, this is what I’m talking about.  I can do this!”  The next morning I arrived to the oficinia at 7:40 am to board my bus, but low and behold, it was not there.  After some searching, phone calls, and other efforts on my part, I finally located and boarded a bus that was supposed to be Machu Pichu-bound.

The travel agency’s owner had explained to me that he could sell me the ticket so cheaply because they would drive us instead of send us by train.  For $110, that was ok with me.  What he failed to mention was that the road didn’t go all the way to Agua Calientes (the city where one must lodge in order to see Machu Pichu in the morning).  The roads that we drove were eternally winding around plummeting cliff’s edges.  It was pouring rain and the driver was speeding.  There was two-way traffic, bicycle riders in the road, and zero visibility. 

I noticed that the roadway engineers that designed this new road must not have been too concerned about the landslides that were occurring all along the site development area, for it appears that they just dig the road out every time it gets covered over in earth.  Perhaps somehow, they did not foresee that the road would become part of the landslide itself, as it had.  I remember waking from restless dreams only to see the bus trying to pass by on one-side of the road because the other had already fallen off of the cliff into the deep chasm below.  Also, I believe the stormwater engineers must have been taking a snooze, for areas of the road were covered in rivers and waterfalls which sprung from the cliffs above.  Those were always nice to drive through because of the risk that the flood current would be just high enough to lift our van and carry it off over the cliff’s edge with the waters.  Somehow, though, once again… God was on my side and we made it to a stopping point.

Unfortunately, this stopping point was not Aguas Calientes.  Instead it was a park entrance about 8 – 10 miles from the hostel where we had reservations.  It looked as though I would be walking through the Andean jungle, just as I hoped for the chance to do while I was still in Bolivia.  The walk was only supposed to be 2 hours and there was 4 hours until dark.  With a broad smile on my face, I embarked on this amazon trail with my fellow travelers.  Somehow though, I couldn’t stand to walk so slowly, so I made the courageous decision to go it alone through the Amazon jungle bound towards Aguas Calientes.  It began to rain fairly heavily about 1 hour into the trip.  Comes to find out, the trip between the drop-off point and the town was 2-hours by train, but about 4-hours by foot.  I ended up walking alone through the jungle in the pouring rain, as fast as I could for 3 hours until I arrived at the city at nightfall.  I would have paid the $110 had I known, but isn’t hindsight always 20-20?

ESPIRITU LIBRE PARA LA VIDA

As I type here, in a Cusco café, barefoot with no make-up on, I realize how little so-called status means to me anymore.  I want to live a rich life, where richness is measured in how many people I can help and how much I can contribute to society and the environment.  Of course, I want to be able to support myself, but this is the floor not the ceiling.  Life can be so magical and those born in the US are so privileged.   To me, it would be really something to be able to share that privilege and freedom with people that weren’t so lucky. 

RANDOM THOUGHTS

I wonder how much longer I will stay living in the USA.

Post nine:  Peru is magic – adventures in the valley of Cusco

I just looked around me and realized that I am surrounded by a roomful of monks and nuns.  While I am wondering where these people even came from, I am about to relay one of the most surrealistic experiences of my life.

GOOD EATS AND OTHER DODGY HAUNTS

Last night I had the MOST INCREDIBLE sandwich at the street corner café by my hostel.  The sandwich came complete with seasoned chicken, mushrooms, onions, sweet potatoes, squash, and curry mayonnaise.  It was probably the most delicious sandwich I have ever tasted in my life.

WHERE’S THE DRIVER?!?

In this city you don’t need a driver.  You do, however, need strong legs.  There is a ton of hiking up and down stairways that will need to be done if one is to navigate this city.  The walks are always beautiful though.  As one walks one can see remnants of ancient Inca architecture.  There are lovely little cafes, incense, music, yoga/healing studios, and artesian studios; All scattered along the narrow cobblestone street-ways.

EVERY SOL SAVED IS A SOL EARNED

Cusco is expensive.  It’s so expensive that I am not even going to go to Machu Pichu.  It costs $190 for one day!  Anyways, hasn’t everyone already been there?  I have seen the stone work that is allegedly derived from alien origin.  It’s here in Cusco too.  As cool as it would be to see this same stone work on top of a cliff’s edge, I pretty much get the point.  I will catch Machu Pichu next go ‘round, when I am rich.

THE SWEET SPOT

I went and saw the Church of San Blas today.  I agree with the guidebook author’s opinion.  This church does contain some of the most intricate wood carvings in the entire world.  As I observed the details of this church, it occurred to me that the man who did these carvings had sacrificed his life for God.  If he had not made such intricate carvings, then I would not have been compelled to enter the church this Sunday morning.  If I had not entered the church, then I would not have knelt before God in His sacred home.  I would not have had the incredible and genuine prayer experience that I did.  I would not have gained the clarity of heart and mind that I did.  The life’s work of one man, many, many years ago allowed me to have a beautiful spiritual experience today.  I believe that this man’s life was a life lived for great purpose.

SAY WHA?!?

The New Year’s Eve celebration of Cusco was unlike anything that I could have even imagined.  It was so wild and out of control that I will have to save this story for next time.

ESPIRITU LIBRE PARA LA VIDA

The long and seemingly endless stairway led directly to Jesus on the Hill.  With his ivory white features smiling down upon me, I felt sure that I could surmount the series of stairs that were taking every last inch of breathe from my heaving lungs.  Upon arrival, I had the chance to dance with Jesus.  If you don’t believe me, just look at the picture.  I thanked Him for the beautiful land and the beautiful people that He created, and then we moved on.  We saw the ruins of "sexy-women" in the distance, but we knew that there was a far greater adventure awaiting us on the opposing horizon.  The road turned into foothills.  The only way to the Temple of the Moon was on footpaths which lead through green grass valleys and trickling streams.  Before the sun set we reached the temple and awed at the sheerness of the cliff directly adjacent to it.  I caressed the stones of the temple, where the Incas had so careful carved their magic.  There was a ledge that seemed to scream out, “I am the site where many beautiful young women were sacrificed for the betterment of the Inca Nation”. 

This was the place. This was it.  This was the place for meditation and prayer; the place for a new era of good.  This was the place where we could open our hearts to the Great Spirit that had moved us here.  We took a few moments to practice the 5 sense Tantra mindfulness meditation. There was a hawk that appeared and took flight along the footpaths that lead toward the sky.   It was getting darker and the lights of Cusco began to shine out far below us.  My friend then led me in a meditation to ground my body into the earth.  As I felt my bones align with the stone beneath me, my closed eyes recognized a deep and cool darkness settle upon me.  The night had come and from behind closed eyes it felt as vast as the giant sky I had known just moments before.   When I opened my eyes there was a brilliance of fireworks that lit the sky from across the Cusco valley.  I was one with the earth, the sky, and my own spirit. 

There was a great power in this place, and in the center of my solar plexus.  I had come to know the great freedom that is available to me in this life.  I had come to know this land of great meaning and antiquity.  I felt blessed and complete, but it was getting dark and we were in a hidden spot of the hills above Cusco.  We needed to return before the rains came and before we could not see our way through the darkness.

We wandered a few hundred yards and I noticed a figure above us in the dark.  At first I believed it was an Indian woman in traditional dress, but I was not sure.  The figure stopped and stood very still, while we kept along our way.  As we got a little closer I noticed that it was a man in pants carrying a grocery sack in each hand.  I did not give it a second thought, for I knew that we had God on our side.  As we crossed paths with the figure though, he called out to us in the night.  “Tu hablas Español?”  There was a feeling of power that came along with the words; a feeling of some authority that obligated us to answer.  My friend said “yes”, and the figure continued on by asking us if the site was free and peaceful of people.  We said ”yes”.  Then the figure looked straight at me and asked my friend whether the woman wants ceremony.  In fact, this was the reason I came to Peru.  I wanted to meet a shaman and experience ceremony.  Nonetheless, my friend answered for me with a resounding “no”. 

The man then turned from us suddenly.  He faced the site and raised prayer hands to his chest.  He breathed out forcefully and made a gesture that indicated he was attempting to clear the site of energies.  He was shaman and he was protector of the sacred Inca site. 

He then turned straight towards my friend and I and began to move very quickly towards us.  It appeared that he was going to charge us and our natural instinct was to turn and move quickly away.   I then knew what was happening to us.  The lessons I learned of shamanism in my youth came to me quickly.  I was living a moment out of the books of Carlos Castaneda and I knew what must be done.  We had to face the shaman, we could not run.  The terror that I felt as I was fleeing quickly turned to a feeling of power.  I turned and faced the man that was charging at me in the dark.  I felt no fear; it was time for battle.  I focused my energy on this man, and held the intent of battle and repulsion.  He changed trajectory quickly and began to run.  He ran straight past us, but he did it with flight-like grace.  A few seconds later he was slithering quickly up the hillside and then back down along the footpath.  I focused on him intently as he disappeared along the path.  I did not want to let my guard down for prospect that he may return.  We eventually found the road, and decided to take the lighted path back down to Cusco.  I have realized that something very deep and magical is happening here in this land.

RANDOM THOUGHTS

Where did these monks come from and why are they so loud?  I wonder if they can figure out that the bright pink earplugs in my ears indicate that I wish they would shush up?!?!